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Make sure you do not forget that. In the first phase you should fold as many possible hands as you can. The only time you should play is when you have a very premium hand and when you have great position for a cheap price.
We will explain the strategy and why it works at the end. For now, just keep that in mind and understand that the more you fold in the beginning, the better.
This is actually the opposite of what some sit and go strategy guides will tell you. Phase 1 should go on from level ; which is the first four levels of blinds.
You are still going to fold as many times as you can, but when you do play you go all in before the flop. This will allow you to pick up a lot of blinds.
When you are called, you will still have the best hand. In this phase you will probably get a caller every once in a while desperate with an Ace 3 or something like that.
This is the phase where you will really focus on building up your stack for the end of the tournament. Remember that there are only 5 other players, so your stack is never really as bad as it seems.
The third phase of the sit and go strategy is the very best phase of all. This is usually the phase where there are only about 3 players left and the one that goes out will end up losing on the bubble.
That is the guy who sat there for 45 minutes for nothing at all. You are going to take full advantage of that and turn it up a couple notches.
In this phase, stealing the blinds is the key. You can usually get away with doubling the blinds or making your bet 3 times bigger than the blind and get the blinds.
Your goal here would be to limp from early or middle position, get raised, and then come back over the top for a re-raise.
I see a lot of chip leaders make an early exit from Sit and Go tournaments by taking on the role of table bully. Trying to dominate your opponents with frequent raises will tip them off to play patiently and reraise you when they have a premium hand.
Folding to enough reraises will put you back down to the middle of the pack. Try to slowly accumulate chips with blind steals and small raises.
This should both increase your intimidating table image and set you up as the favorite when play becomes shorthanded. Perhaps one of the most essential skills to have in Sit and Go tournaments is knowing how and when to steal the blinds.
It also helps you stay patient by allowing you to have fodder to pay the blinds while you wait for a powerful hand.
To steal the blinds you should be the first one into pot making a standard 2. If you wait longer, there is a much greater chance that your bet will be called in multiple places, which of course decreases your expected win rate.
With any other hand you just want to win a set of blinds. Your goal with such a short stack is to either pick up the blinds uncontested or isolate to a heads-up situation where you still may have an advantage.
Good job! Most often, the action will take place before the flop. The small blind gets to make the first move preflop so if you have any semblance of a hand you should raise and try to take the big blind.
If your opponent is timid you should definitely run over him as often as possible. You can be armed with any pocket pair, any Ace or King-face-card, or even suited connectors.
A-A or undercards vs. Both of those require your opponent to have an overpair and the odds of that happening in the few hands you and your opponents will have the blinds to play are very low.
Your opponent is likely going to fold most hands uncontested pre-flop. Even if you make an all-in move and get called with a less-than-stellar hand you still have a decent chance to win.
I would rather trade the risk of my opponent waking up with a premium pocket pair and busting me out for the chance to steal most of his chips while he folds and waits for a better chance to fight back.
The most important adjustments happens during the middle stages when there are four or five players left. By this point the blinds have likely increased enough to make them a central focus of everyone at the table.
That stack will allow you to exert pressure on short stacks while not having to worry about risking your tournament life.
All you need to do is outlast the other three or five players. Think of it like the prevent defense in football. Steal the blinds and keep your stack hovering, but avoid big pots unless you are truly holding premium hands and it is unavoidable.
As the blinds increase you should begin to open up your game by occasionally stealing blinds and raising with more hands from late position.
Many online players make a healthy profit from playing these games exclusively. A lifelong poker player who moved online in , Josh founded Beat The Fish in to help online poker players make more-informed decisions on where to play and how to win once they got there.
He hopes to counter the rampant dishonesty in online gaming media with objective reviews and relevant features. You have a stack of 1, and everyone has you covered.
The blinds fold. Oh noez - you got called by a monster. This is terrible, right? You're only approximately a underdog versus A-K. And guess what?
That difference in expected value is made up by the blind overlay. So in reality you're not in bad shape at all.
No two unpaired cards are that much of a favorite against two other non-paired hands. So don't fret if you get in "bad" - you'll know you made the right play based on your fold equity in the hand!
This is the key to late-stage sit-and-go play. Be the aggressor. The aggressor has two ways to win while the caller only has one.
Never allow yourself to get blinded out. Being blinded out means you gave up on your sit-and-go. Stop trying to limp your way to the small money and start shoving your way to that first-place prize.
While being the aggressor is the key to a quality end game, you can't just fold everything if you aren't the initial raiser. Sometimes you're going to have to make calls.
But there are a few things to take into account before you decide to get all passive and just call. Obviously if you have a monster, no debate: just get your chips in the middle and hope for the best.
The times I'm talking about are those marginal, borderline situations. You have to look at your stack. If you have no money invested in the pot, then you should be less likely to want to call off your chips.
In fact you should never cold-call your chips off unless you think you are a favorite and are getting odds on your money. The game is three-handed.
You're in the big blind with 6, after posting your blind. The button folds and the small blind shoves for 1, total. You have invested already.
He shoves for 1, total. This means 1, in the pot and you only have to call more. You're getting on your call. The player in the small blind should be shoving almost any two cards here.
Your hand stacks up very well against his range and you're getting on your money. You're only worse than against pocket pairs bigger than both your cards, which is highly unlikely.
Chances are you'll get your money in in a situation. With no danger of getting knocked out, if you make bets all day getting you'll end up rich.
You're in the big blind and have 2, The button folds and the small blind shoves for 3, This one you have to call off your chips.
Your hand absolutely crushes the small blind's range. Even tight players are going to be shoving most aces in this spot and your hand is far better than average.
I would recommend you fold a smaller ace in this spot but with a big ace like A-T you have to make the call. While I recommend against just calling in my overall strategy, I did have to put this in here.
I'm amazed at the players I see folding hands with incredible odds. As a rule of thumb, if you're getting better than you should have a pretty good reason for not calling.
Once you get to the end game, you still need to seal the deal. You've learned all the tools; now you just have to apply them one-on-one.
So our focus now is heads-up play. Unfortunately, the way most sit-and-gos are designed online, by the time you get to heads-up play the blinds are so big the game doesn't allow for much play.
I hope you've accumulated some chips because if the chips are even it will be a very tight match. Neither player will hold much of an edge over the other because of the structure.
The match usually comes down to whomever gets the best cards in the shortest period of time. That's not to say it's completely out of your hands though; there's still room for you to exploit your edge.
When you're heads-up, hand values change from what they were pre-flop in the earlier stages. Think of it this way: If your hand is decent short-handed it's a monster heads-up.
Pocket pairs are very robust. Hands are usually won with just one pair at showdown, so if you are dealt one before the flop then you're already ahead of the game.
Top pair is a massive hand heads-up and it's almost always worthy of getting all-in. Hands that decrease in value are weak speculative hands, like low suited connectors.
While they may be decent hands to raise with as a steal, they should not be played against a raise. These hands dramatically drop in value when the stacks are short.
Even if you flop a draw, there's little money to get paid off with. When they do hit the flop, they usually make weak second-pair type hands or gut-shot draws.
Nothing you'd want to risk your tournament life on. You have 6, and so does your opponent. Your opponent bets 3, What should you do?
That's it, that's all. This is the crux of heads-up poker in a sit-and-go. The blinds are too big and there's so little play that if you flop top pair you're destined to get it all-in.
Your opponent calls. Your opponent checks and you bet 3, Your opponent shoves. You have two over-cards and an open-ended straight draw.
You only have 1, in your stack and there's 11, in the pot. To put it bluntly, you're pot-committed. Luckily you have a massive draw and are getting great odds.
It's hands like these your tournament will come down to. You should of course, as always in poker, be exploiting your position to the max.
Continue pushing hard when in position. Don't stop stealing or slow your aggression just because you're heads-up - the game is not over until it's won.
So stay on your toes and keep up the fight. Remember if you always make decisions as best you can you'll make money in the long run no matter what happens in the short term.
Well, that brings our Beginners Guide to becoming a sit-and-go champion to a close. It's by no means comprehensive - I wrote it for the average player who understands poker but wants to take his or her sit-and-go game to the next level.
I hope it's given you enough information to go from merely playing sit-and-go's to understanding what it takes to be a serious winner.
It is clear to me that the person who wrote this article only plays this game for recreational purposes. Sucking out happens less than winning outright so in the long run the strategy is sound.
Play tight early while the LAGs and maniacs knock each other out. Thank-you for the articles. Seeing how the small blind plays would be important too.
This has really helped me. Have been doing really badly lately and really started to lose my confidence, and money! Have been playing today as it says here and have won 6 out of 7 games.
Seriously try it it works. The only problem with the strategy is that I see a lot of players raising bonkers hands preflop.
I mean anything really, ace and 3 unsuited, low connectors unsuited etc. This happened to me where a player raised preflop with k7 unsuited, I called with A10 suited.
A 10 came on the flop with something like 4 and 8, he called my bet that took over a third of his stack, a 7 came on the turn he bet and I raised.
He then got his K on the river. Point being I would have never raised preflop with his hand and would have folded on the flop if I did, therefore am I playing too tight?